How I started using a 123 Fructose Vat

1/16/2018

How to get started with a 123 Fructose VAt

Over the past year, I have been exploring Shibori techniques and natural indigo dyeing. As a designer and educator this interest developed instantly and naturally for me. If you are getting serious about textiles and would like to learn more about natural indigo, I will link to all of my favorite resources at the end of this post. You may remember my post about my favorite indigo artists, many of whom I follow on Instagram. They are still a huge part of why I research indigo more deeply. I am offering private classes and workshops on the medium, I have two coming up this week, so this seemed like the perfect time to share the recipe with all of you!

While, my first few tries with indigo I used a kit containing pre-reduced indigo, I now focus on using organic indigo powder. I switched over for a couple of reasons, my top reasons are:

Environmental: I prefer to keep the dye-process chemical free
Aesthetic: I like the appearance of the natural indigo best

Here are the steps that I use to create a 123 fructose vat, based on Michel Garcia's recipe that I have read about through multiple sources.

I hope that you will find the photos of the process, along with the recommended steps and supplies, equally helpful.

Keep reading

Gather your Fructose VAT Supplies

For this project, you will need:

I ordered all of my ingredients through Botanical Colors, a company founded by Kathy Hattori that specializes natural dyes. I love that she is passionate about using plant based materials that are from local farms and derived from nature.

In a pinch, since beginning with a fructose vat, I have even purchased a large quantity of fructose at my local health food store.

Once you have gathered all of your supplies, you are ready to create your indigo stock.

1 part indigo
2 parts calcium hydroxide (pickling lime)
3 parts fructose

1. Add 2 tablespoons of indigo powder, then wet it out with a bit of warm water to form a paste.

2. Next, you will add one cup of hot water.

Adding the indigo powder + 1 cup of hot water

4. Add 6 tbs of fructose stir it in, until it dissolves.

5. Then, add 4 tbs of calcium hydroxide and stir it in completely. I stir fairly slowly making sure to dissolve any lumps.

I did not have to wait long until the first bubbles and flower appeared on the top of the jar.

At this point, you will need to add in a bit more hot water filling the jar up to the top leaving about 1-2" of space. Then, let your stock settle completely and begin to react. This can take 15-30 minutes. In some cases the solution may look yellow-green when it is almost ready. In other cases, it may look reddish-brown. When those colors are achieved, your indigo solution is ready to go!

Once it is all ready, you will see the "indigo flower" (bubbles on top). I gently tip the stock solution into a vat of warm water. I bought a thermometer specifically for this and I keep the temp set around 120-130 degrees F. Once the liquid inside the vat has become a yellowish green color with coppery scum on the top, you are ready to dye!

Since most of my indigo projects involve Shibori, I bind my fabrics first, then pre-soak them in water and ring dry prior to dyeing, in that order.

Resources for indigo Dyers

Here are some of my favorite resources that have helped me to learn more deeply about indigo dyeing:

Botanical Colors: How to dye with Indigo
Dharma Trading: for rayon scarves, silk scarves, and fabric
Blockshop Textile workshop that I attended had a focus on indigo, although I believe it changes from time to time
Natural Dye Workshop with Michel Garcia

Lastly, I would love to hear from you. Are you considering switching to a natural fructose vat? I am so glad that I did. Do you have any questions for me about how to troubleshoot your indigo vat? Let me know in the comments!

Here are some additional posts on Shibori that I think you might enjoy!

6 Comments

Dee Huffman link

3/12/2018 10:49:24 am

Have you tried to maintain this vat for an extended period of time. I want to learn how to nurture a vat to keep it going.

Hilary Hahn link

3/13/2018 10:25:30 am

Hi Dee,
Thanks for stopping by, as I mentioned in our FB group, I have tried rebalancing my fructose vat. I usually heat it back it up add 1 Tbsp of fructose and 1 Tbsp of Calcium Hydroxide if the PH is low. Then, I wait for oxidization to occur. I measure the PH too, using PH strips and have read that for indigo to process on cotton a PH of 11 is ideal and for silk a PH of 9 is adequate.

Kim Springer

4/18/2018 10:51:47 pm

Can you use pre-reduced indigo? I live in Hawaii, where the temperatures fluctuate between the mid 60s to the high 80s. Would I still need to heat my vat?

Hilary L Hahn link

4/21/2018 03:21:22 pm

Hi Kim,
I live in Los Angeles and the temp is similar but a bit cooler.
From what I understand the low heat speeds up the reduction process. Although, I have read many descriptions where they simply mix the vat with lukewarm or room temp water. Getting the indigo too hot can damage the plant. Lastly, I read notes from dyer living in Hawaii, who was able to keep the vat going all summer by rebalancing. If I find it, I will be sure to share it with you.

Mary Ellen Davis

9/4/2022 05:23:04 am

Hi Kim!
I had one Shibori T-shirt dying time with 3 grandchildren ( ages 7 & 10)-such fun! Im planning to have one more session-involving way more people and shirts-( maybe 5& 20 respectively) it seems like it would be cost-effective to make a vat for the day instead of buying multiple kits. I want to make a fructose vat-would I need a bucket heater?

9/4/2022 08:12:32 am

Hey Mary, I like to use warm water in my fructose vat or alternately, I create it in a steel vat gently warm it on the stove top. Always careful not to boil it.