Shibori Indigo: The Ultimate Guide

Have you ever admired the beautiful color of indigo dipped textiles? Did you consider that you could create your own Shibori designs with natural indigo?

If you've ever thought about re-purposing something already in your closet or giving new life to linens then you are also in the right place! 

I'm a textile artist with over a decade of experience and have learned techniques from artisans in Japan and India. I have hosted Shibori workshops all over the country and I'm ready to share my best tutorials with you!

The beauty of shibori is it's versatility. No matter your experience level, anyone can fold fabric and make gorgeous textiles. Roll up your sleeves and get ready to join me at the indigo vat! 

What is Shibori?

Shibori is an ancient technique that involves resisting dye to creating designs on fabric. This can be done by binding the fabric in a variety of ways and then using indigo dye to create the designs. Various tools can be used - rubberbands, shapes, clamps, even stones. Binding methods can be as simple as an accordion fold that is wrapped with string or can involve intricate stitching.

We'll begin with the basics so let's hop in!

Shibori Ideas 

Unsure of what you'd like to make? It can be overwhelming! Don't get frustrated. Shibori is wonderful because no matter what you end up choosing, it will look stunning!

My Shibori Textile Design Basics tutorial is a great place to begin. Pick a simple project for your first design. A cotton bandanna or tea towel are great choices (and there are additional suggestions that can be found in the tutorial). 

Simple designs often result in elegant pieces. And you can always dip the item into the indigo vat a second time if you want to add more to your initial design. 

Shibori Design 

I've had many workshop attendees tell me that they aren't creative and within 2-3 hours they have created incredibly designed textiles. If you are are feeling intimidated, you aren't alone! 

I host virtual and in-person workshops because a bit of guidance when you first start out is always helpful! I hope to see you at one soon but in the meantime my 3 Basic Shibori Techniques Tutorial is a wonderful guide that goes over three fabric manipulation techniques that are perfect for those new to shibori. 

I also wanted to share a couple of tips when you are considering your first shibori project: 

Tip #1: Create a space that inspires
Relax and breathe deeply. Block out time in your calendar. Put on music that moves you. Make time to think about what you would like to create. The creative process can be intimidating but remember we're here to have fun! Give yourself the space and time to explore your ideas. 

Tip #2: Don't feel compelled to start with a blank page
It's TOUGH to begin at square one (I have been there so many times). Get inspired! Pinterest is a wonderful resource for visual inspiration. Keeping photos of pieces you like on your phone is another great way. No matter where you keep your inspiration library, make sure it's handy when you are prepping your ideas!
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Tip #3: Design with shapes
When you are choosing your first textile piece to shibori design, it is helpful to think of your potential design in terms of shapes. 

Whichever shibori technique you end up using will be a result of the shapes you create with the fabric and tools you use to bind it. It can be a difficult concept to wrap one's head around but keep in mind - the fabric that is bound or sandwiched between shapes will resist the dye while the fabric exposed to the dye will accept the dye color. This guide has some helpful tips when it comes to shapes!

The Indigo Vat

I'm drawn to shibori designs partly because of that beautiful, rich blue color imparted by the indigo. Let's dedicate some time to prepping the indigo vat you will need when your items are ready. 

I prefer working with organic indigo powder (kits are available here) to make the process as sustainable as I can and because I like its aesthetic. 

Making your own indigo vat may sound intimidating but can easily be done at home. Whether you are working with a kit or gathering your own materials, this guide has TONS of pictures you can follow each step of the way. 

Selecting Fabric for Shibori 

Choosing the right fabrics items for your shibori pieces is a HUGE consideration! Synthetic fabrics may not accept the dye evenly (and it run completely off some) so take a little time when selecting your fabrics so your end result looks amazing!

I have tested out so many natural fabrics over the years and I have found that cotton, silk, and wool work best. If possible, I recommend working with organic materials.

Take a look around your home. There may be a tea towel or t-shirt you can easily up-cycle into something new to you. You can't go wrong with a small cotton tote or pair of socks! If you'd like my natural fiber guide, be sure to drop a line! 

Shibori techniques 
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You have your items you'd like to work with, now it's time to have fun and create! If you are referencing your inspiration library you probably have an idea of all the designs that can be created with shibori techniques. To begin, we will focus on Kumo, Arashi and Itajime. I learned about these through reading, LOTS of experimentation and practice. 

You are probably most familiar with Kumo Shibori, which means spider-web, and is a way to form a ring or a circle through binding. This technique comes to mind when thinking about colorful tie-dyed t-shirts, but it's origins are rooted in ancient Japan and India. Kumo is the practice of tying and binding found objects, which are often pebbles or stones.

Next, up is Arashi, a pole dyeing technique. The word Arashi, means storm, and in this technique twine is used to create directional lines. This effect is achieved through wrapping fabric around a dowel or pole, securing it with twine, then dyeing it. For this method, a deeper vat or 3 gallon bucket works well and the fabric can also be scrunched up toward the end of the pole.

Itajime Shibori, using various folds to pleat the fabric then securing it with shapes. Then shapes are applied to resist the dye leaving the space where the shape is placed in white. Shapes can be cut from a variety of materials including wood, cardboard and Plexiglas. 

Advanced Shibori Techniques 

Once you have dipped a few shibori pieces you may want to try a stitched resist pattern. Thread is used to create a design to resist the indigo dye and it is carefully removed after dipping the fabric. This guide will walk you through mokume (wood grain) shibori.